---

It takes a special kind of strength, and lots of practice, to get up at the crack of dawn and jump into icy waters, but women do it daily. The winter makes the days short, but the houses are warm, and there is pea soup for dinner and coffee for brunch to stay spirited. Boats are rocked into little naps and gently burped by tapping waves as pelicans sneak around them. Port Fairy is the perfect summer-holiday destination, but there’s something more in its endurance and charm throughout the winter chill.

You can buy Port Fairy in puzzle form at www.onebutmanypuzzles.com.au .